5 Places to Visit in Tharangambadi: India’s Danish Village

The year is 1616.

Denmark sets their eyes on Ceylon (modern-day Sri Lanka) to establish the Danish East India Company.

In late January 1619, Ronald Crappé, the director general of the company, lands in Ceylon.

The Kingdom of Kandy (a monarchy in Ceylon) agrees to help Crappé set up the company, provided he overthrows the existing Portuguese rule in Ceylon. However, as Crappe goes to attack the Portuguese, they capture and imprison him.

Luckily for Crappé, he had contacts in various Indian kingdoms, including the king of Thanjavur (in modern-day Tamil Nadu), who rescues him and some of his crew.

Seeing the growing threat of the Portuguese empire, the Thanjavur king grants Crappé the local fishing village of Tharangambadi to the Danish East India Company in 1620.

That’s how Denmark sets foot in India for the first time. 

The Danes would go on to rule this place for the next 225 years before the village gets sold to the British in 1845. However, the British neglected this village, so what you see today are the remains from the Danish era.

As I visited this place, I learnt stuff about Danish history in India that hasn’t been covered in our history books.

In the guide below, I share my personal experience along with some interesting information so you can plan a visit to this remote beach town.

Where is Tharangambadi?

Also known as Tranquebar by the Danes, Tharangambadi lies in the Mayiladuthurai district of Tamil Nadu, 120 km from Pondicherry and 285 km from Chennai. It’s on the eastern coast, neighbouring the Bay of Bengal.

A One-Day Itinerary for Tharangambadi

Tharangambadi is a tiny village, and hence, it barely takes a day to cover all the attractions. It’s like a mini version of Pondicherry, except that it has Danish architecture instead of French.

I visited Tharangambadi with my cousins for a day as part of a road trip around Tamil Nadu. Here’s the itinerary I followed chronologically to explore this village:

1. T.E.L.C. New Jerusalem Church: India’s First Danish Church

The T.E.L.C. New Jerusalem Church is among the first Danish establishments you’ll witness as you enter the Tranquebar Town Gate. Unfortunately, I missed it due to a lack of time, but I still saw it from the outside. 

FYI – It is one of the only two Danish churches in India, the other being St. Olav’s Church, Serampore in West Bengal.

Located in the heart of Tharangambadi, this church has a mix of Danish, European, and Indian architecture, giving it a unique look.

But it gets better.

Do you know why this church has the word ‘New’ attached to its name? Let me take you back in history.

King Frederick IV of Denmark called upon Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg and Heinrich Plütschau to spread Christianity among the locals in Tharangambadi. Under the Tranquebar Mission, Ziegenbalg established the ‘Jerusalem Church’ in 1707 for the local population.

However, on 27 November 1715,  a tsunami struck Tharangambadi, but the church remained intact. It was still a warning sign as the church lay close to the sea. Additionally, over time, the church filled as the crowd attending the masses increased. 

This led to a demand for a new church.

In 1718, Ziegenbalg helped establish the ‘New Jerusalem Church’ (which is what you see today). The church conducted services every Sunday in Tamil, which continues to date.

As luck would have it, the 2004 tsunami damaged this church. However, it was renovated and reopened in 2006.

Fun fact: Ziegenbalg was buried here in 1719.

2. Ziegenbalg House: The Legend of Tharangambadi

If there’s one man responsible for the development of Tharangambadi, it’s Ziegenbalg. Therefore, you must visit the Ziegenbalg House, which is his house converted into a museum.

Let me give you some context about this guy.

As I mentioned before, Ziegenbalg, along with Heinrich Plütschau, were the first Protestant missionaries sent to India by King Frederick IV of Denmark.

As part of the Tranquebar Mission, Ziegenbalg built/achieved the following:

• New Jerusalem Church
• The first all-girls school in India
• The first Tamil printing press in India
• The first translation of the Bible into Tamil
• The first translation of Tamil literature into German
• And many more…

Ziegenbalg also rallied against the caste system and emphasised local education, which explains some of his achievements above. That’s why he’s highly regarded among the locals in Tharangambadi and has his statue in the village.

The Ziegenbalg House showcases his life and contributions through artefacts, including the printing press that he developed.

Located inside a school compound with a ruined chapel next to it, Ziegenbalg House has two stories. It took me around 45 minutes to cover it.

It is in an isolated area, but you can rely on Google Maps.

The Ziegenbalg House is open from 10 am to 6 pm on all days, except Monday, when it’s closed. On Sundays, it’s open from 3 pm to 7 pm.

3. Tharangambadi Maritime Museum: A Peek Into Danish History

After the Ziegenbalg House, this is another place where I spent a lot of time because there’s so much Danish and Tranquebar history to unpack here.

The Tharangambadi Maritime Museum is a former Danish Commander’s house which now displays exhibits, artefacts, paintings, weapons, coins, etc. from the Danish era in Tharangambadi.

As the name suggests, you’ll also find many equipment used in maritime as Tranquebar and Denmark traded via the seas.

I did find some sections unappealing as random things were placed together without any context. Some of these artefacts, like cameras from the past, had nothing to do with the Danish or Tranquebar history. The museum certainly needs better curation. Regardless, the overall experience was great.

This two-story museum is at a stone’s throw from the Danish Fort and Tranquebar Beach.

The entry fee is INR 20, and it’s open from 10 am to 5 pm every day.

4. Fort Dansborg/Danish Fort: Danish East India Company’s HQ

If you’ve ever searched for Tranquebar/Tharangambadi on Google, Fort Dansborg shows up. And it looks exactly like the pictures!

The unique Danish architecture, combined with its location close to the sea, makes it stand out.

For context, the Danish Fort was built on the land given by the Thanjavur king to Denmark. 

It was the primary settlement area and the headquarters of the Danish East India Company. Hence, it served as a trading post for spices and textiles between India and Denmark.

Fun fact: Fort Dansborg is the second-largest Danish fort in the world after Kronborg in Denmark.

Take time to check out every room in the fort because there are so many, with each having its unique design. You could tell this fort was well-planned. Some of these rooms include a water room, a wine room, and an explosive room.

Apart from being a fort, there’s also a small museum in the main hall of the fort, which contains a few Danish artefacts. You’ll also find the original treaty known as the Tranquebar Treaty of 1620, signed between the Thanjavur kingdom and Denmark.

The only con about this fort is that in some places, it is in ruins and needs better care.

The fort is open from 10 am to 5 pm except Fridays, when it’s closed. I recommend visiting it in the evening so you can experience pleasant weather and ambience.

5. Tranqueber Beach: India’s Only Ozone-Rich Beach

I ended my trip with a visit to the Tranquebar Beach, right in front of the Danish Fort.

There’s a small rocky area on the beach from where you’ll get some amazing pictures of the fort in the background. The photos of the Danish Fort you see online have been taken from here.

The overall beach is clean and stretches across a vast coastline. You’ll likely find a crowd, especially during sunset, which is also the best time to relax here.

Fun fact: Tranqueber Beach is the only ozone-rich beach in India, which means it’ll protect you from the harmful UV rays of the sun if you decide to sunbathe here.

Swimming is prohibited at this beach due to the unpredictable tides.

The Only Stay I Recommend in Tharangambadi

Unfortunately, you won’t find many stays in Tharangambadi. There are only a handful, most of which are expensive. 

The only stay I recommend is the one I stayed at.

Note: Book your accommodation in advance as it may be difficult to get one at the last moment.

Elim Luxury Suite

Apart from being reasonably priced, I preferred the Elim Luxury Suite as it’s accessible to all the locations in Tharangambadi.

With ample room for up to 4 guests, an AC, and an attached bathroom, it has a glass wall, meaning you’ll hardly hear any outside noise.

There’s also a small garden in its compound, along with a parking spot.

Where to Eat in Tharangambadi?

This was the worst travel experience I had in terms of finding a good restaurant. I couldn’t find any.

The ones I had shortlisted were either closed or looked shabby. We had to travel to another town to find food.

While technically you’ll get great food at Neemrana’s Coconut Alley, it’s expensive.

The state government must promote local restaurants here because it takes away from the otherwise wonderful experience of visiting Tharangambadi.

How to Reach Tharangambadi?

You can either start your trip from Chennai, which takes 6 hours by road, or from Bangalore, which takes 8 hours.

Or if you haven’t been to Pondicherry, I recommend combining it with Tharangambadi, as it’s only 2.5 hours from there. Besides, you get to cover two destinations in one go.

Either way, don’t rely on public transport because it’s non-existent based on my research. Even if it’s there, it will be a major hassle.

Use your transport.

How to Travel within Tharangambadi?

Simple. Just walk.

Tharangambadi is a small village. You can cover all the places on foot. No need for transport.

If you’ve booked a stay within Tharangambadi, park your vehicle at the property and explore the village on foot. I suggest this because we struggled to park the car near the Danish Fort due to the limited spaces, combined with many tourist vehicles.

Best Time to Visit Tharangambadi

I went during November when the weather was sunny and windy. So this time should be fine.

Nevertheless, you should avoid visiting coastal Tamil Nadu during the summer months, from March to May, as it becomes hot and humid.

A Danish-Indian History That Needs Experiencing

Before visiting Tharangambadi, I had no idea that Denmark colonised a small part of India for more than 200 years before the British took over.

Given such a huge period, it’s shocking that we barely know about this piece of Indian history. For context, the French ruled Pondicherry for 138 years.

Regardless, if you’re a history and architecture buff like me, Tharangambadi will answer many questions about Danish history in India.

Ensure that you combine Tharangambadi with another destination, use your transport, and avoid the summers. You’ll be good to go!